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Why using a checklist during a car sale?

Buying an used car be tricky. They can have some hidden problems that aren't even obvious when you make a test drive. This checklist will help you to recognize potential problems. Before you finalize the deal, make sure that the vehicle is inspected by a trustworthy mechanic. Because many things can only be properly inspected when the vehicle is lifted up on a hoist.

Research first.

Almost any used car has some problems or weak spots that are common for this particular make and model. A little research on the internet can be very helpful here. Just use Google and type keywords as "problems" or "review" followed by the brand name you are looking for. If you don't know how to use the internet, ask a relative who can. Once you know common problems, you will have much better idea what to look for. This will also help you to avoid "problem" cars. If possible, also review the dealer on the internet with the same Google procedure.

Buy or not buy?

If you inspect an used car during a car sale, two things has to be clear. Does the vehicle has signs of major problems that should tell you to avoid a buy? Or do you see only minor issues that is easily to be taken care of? And which you might can use in the price negotiations. If you see evidence of major problems, don't inspect the vehicle and move on to the next. Major problems can be serious rust damage, potential engine and transmission problems, signs of serious accidents, flood damage, or signs that the vehicle has been serious abused by previous owners. Minor issues are the ones that can be easily corrected, including worn tires, minor suspension and brake problems, as well as minor appearance flaws like dents and scratches.

What you need for a good check during a car sale.

You need something to take notes for the brand name, price, or small problems. Also handy is a flashlight. But with the new technology available, your cell phone with a camera and a built-in flashlight will work just fine too. If you have a small magnet, it might be helpful in detecting repaired corrosion spots. You also need a paper towel to check engine oil and a CD disc or iPod to check the CD player and audio system. If you will be using a child seat, it's good idea to take one with you, so you can check if it fits easily. What's most important, you need a trustworthy mechanic who can help you to make a good informed decision.

Check the interior.

How does the steering wheel, driver's seat and the inner door handle look like? Are there any smells? Remember that tobacco and other strong odors are very difficult to get rid of, especially in cloth interiors. Can you find a comfortable driving position? Is there enough room for your legs and head? How is the visibility? Check if the car has the features that are important for you, such as a cruise control or a USB port.

If the car has remote control keys, test if they work. Typically a new car comes with two or three keys or key fobs; ask how many come with the car. Check the condition of the seats, look for burnt marks and other damage. Minor damage can be repaired. Check the condition of the seat belts.

If the car has power windows, test it. Test power windows, power locks and mirrors. Window regulator problems are common in many older cars. Sometimes a window goes down well, but goes up very slow or crooked.

The interior: Pay extra attention to the dashboard

Check all the controls on the dashboard, including the audio system. If the car has a CD player or USB input, check if it works. Make sure to test the air conditioning; air conditioning problems are common in used cars. With the engine running, turn the A/C on. You should feel cold air coming from the vents soon after the A/C is turned on. Test all the speed settings.

Check the exterior.

During the inspection you want to find out if it's worth to check the car further, or that you should stop the buy and look for another car sale? Start with a quick walk-around: Major rust spots should tell you right away to avoid this vehicle. Try to open and close all the doors. They should close easily. Open the driver's door and try to lift it on the hinges. There shouldn't be any free play. Does the car have a trailer hitch? Does it show signs of excessive use? If the car was regularly used to tow, the transmission could be worn excessively.

If the vehicle is parked in a tight or dark spot, ask the seller to park it outside in an open area. In this way you have better access to all sides. Take a look at the vehicle from a distance. In this way it's easier to see if the colors of the panels don't match. The reflection of the daylight or the sun can be very helpful here. Walk around the car and mark (or take photo's) of all the dents, scratches and other flaws.

Check the engine.

The easiest way to detect engine problems is to start it cold, after the car was standing for a while. Ask the car dealers to start the engine: Is there any smoke from the exhaust? Does the engine run rough or rattle loud when started? If the engine runs rough or makes loud noise at startup, stop the car sale process. If there is a blue smoke or white smoke that smells like antifreeze from the exhaust, stop the buy too.

The engine should start easily and run smoothly. If you think that this car is worth to check further, start from the exterior. If you are planning to inspect more then one car sale, it might be a good idea to take photos of each car (if the car dealers allows it), including flaws and features so you can review them later when considering your choice. Before checking anything under the hood, make sure the engine is off, the transmission is in Park and the parking brake is applied. A quick look under the hood can tell a lot about the car.

The engine: What to look for especially:

- Leaks
- Smell of burnt oil or antifreeze
- Anything that suggests that a car has not been regularly serviced
- Signs of poor quality repairs
- Mods that suggest the car has been raced or otherwise abused

It means nothing that the vehicle looks clean and shiny under the hood. It doesn't directly mean that there could be no leaks or other problems. Car sellers often shampoo the engine compartment before putting the car up for sale. That's why before buying, you still should arrange for a mechanical inspection by an independent mechanic. So he can lift the car and inspect it for leaks and other issues from underneath.

Pay extra attention to leaks

Minor leaks are fairly common in high-mileage cars. But leaks (coolant leaks especially) could point to more serious problems. Look for leaks under the car; the only thing that should be dripping from under the car is water from the air conditioner drain tube when the A/C is running. The A/C drain tube is typically located under the passenger side of the firewall. Any other leak (coolant, engine oil, transmission fluid, etc.) points to a problem. The smell of burnt oil or antifreeze under the hood is another indication of possible leaks.

Check the battery connections. Battery terminals who are badly corroded, suggest that this car probably hasn't been serviced regularly.

Pay extra attention to the oil condition

Check the engine oil. Make sure the engine is off and the parking brake is applied. Find the engine oil dipstick (usually it has a bright handle that says" Engine Oil." Pull the dipstick out and check the oil level and condition. If the oil looks very dirty and the oil level is very low, it means that either the engine consumes oil, or it has been poorly maintained. Check the condition of the dipstick itself; if it's covered with black deposits, it's also a sign of poor maintenance.

Check the engine while it is off

With the engine off, open the oil filler cap and look inside the engine; use your flashlight. If the internal engine parts that you can see are covered with thick black deposits, it's also an indication of poor engine condition.
Check the transmission fluid. If you can find the transmission fluid dipstick (not all cars have one), check the transmission fluid condition. To see better, drop some fluid on a white paper towel. Transmission fluid should be clean and transparent. Very dirty transmission fluid with a burnt smell is a sign of excessive transmission wear.

The windows.

Look carefully at the windows. Note any chips, scratches or other damage. Some chips and star cracks, if large enough, can be very dangerous. They can also produce a glare when you drive at night. Similar scratches can be made by sand caught under the wiper blades. The wipers are another part that often has problems in older cars. Test all wipers and washer functions.

The tires.

Check the tires. Do they look worn out? Do they have cuts or other damage ? Are the tires of a reputable brand? All four tires should be of the same brand. Does it appear that tires worn out unevenly (e.g. more on the inside)? This can be an indication of possible wheel alignment issues. Check if the car has a spare tire, a jack and a lug nut wrench. If the wheels have wheel locks installed, make sure there is a key for it.

Check for flood and rain damage.

Flash floods and heavy rain are common in Africa. If a vehicle has been flooded, it's more likely to develop various electrical problems in the future. Modern cars have many electronic components under the floor carpet and around the foot wells that can get damaged if submerged under water. Look for water level marks in the door panels and speakers. Look for signs of moisture under the carpet. Check the trunk and the spare tire well for signs of water damage. Be suspicious if the history report indicates that the car came from the flood area.

Check vehicle manufacturer's label.

Check the manufacturer's label. Usually you can find it on the driver's door or on the door jamb. Besides the VIN number that you might need to check the history records, the label contains the manufacturing date. Check if it correct with the year the car dealers advertise with.

The test drive

If car dealers don't allow you to make a test drive by yourself, stop the buy. Make sure the vehicle has a license plate and insurance, before you make a test drive. The longer you drive, the more chance you have to notice issues with the car. Many problems become more evident with a fully warmed up vehicle. For example, the gear box may start acting up after 20 minutes of driving. Or the engine may show signs of overheating.

Some issues (e.g. noisy wheel bearings, drive train vibration, alignment issues, noisy tires) are more noticeable when driving on the highway. Suspension and steering noises are easier to notice when driving slow over rough roads.

Perform a test when the car is standing still with the engine idling. Do you feel any excessive engine vibrations? And when the vehicle has an automatic gear box: When you shift, is there a long delay before the transmission engages? Or do you feel a strong jolt or clunk?

During the test drive be alert on the following issues:

- Do you notice any hesitation or stumbling during acceleration?
- Does the engine feel smooth and responsive or sluggish and "rough"?
- Any smoke?
- Any irregular noises or vibration on acceleration or deceleration?
- Do you notice a clicking or popping noise when accelerating in turns?
- Does the transmission shift smoothly on acceleration and deceleration?
- Any jolts, slipping or delays when transmission shifts from one gear to another?
- Any jolts when coming to a stop?
- When stopped, is the engine idling smoothly or rpms jumping up and down?
- Does the car hold a straight line well or pulls to one side or another?
- Is the steering wheel centered when driving straight?
- Any knocking thumping or rattling noises when driving on rough roads?
- Does the car "bounces" excessively when driving over bumps?
- Any noises while braking? Does the car pull aside during braking?
- Does the brake pedal feel too low or too hard?
- Does the hand brake hold the car from rolling on the incline?

Happy buy !

We hope that this free check list will help you to make the right choice, when you go out for a car sale.